Is La Fortuna Worth Visiting? My Honest Guide to Hot Springs, Waterfalls and Where to Eat

La Fortuna is one of those places where Costa Rica starts looking exactly like the Costa Rica you pictured in your head.

You have the rainforest, Arenal Volcano, natural hot springs, waterfalls, wildlife and all kinds of outdoor activities. It’s beautiful, touristy, adventurous and sometimes more expensive than you expect—all at the same time.

My best friend Amber and I spent part of our Costa Rica vacation in La Fortuna, and the experience gave us some great stories. We stayed at my first hostel, visited Baldi Hot Springs, tried both trendy and traditional restaurants and made it down all 530 steps to La Fortuna Waterfall.

If you know me, then you already know those 530 steps were pure torture for me in the moment. Hahaha! But I am SO happy we did it, and in the end, it was worth every step.

Here is my honest take on what La Fortuna is like and how to choose the experiences that are right for you.

La Fortuna Is Tourist-Friendly, but Prices Are All Over the Place

La Fortuna is definitely a tourist town. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, tours and activities, which makes it easy to fill your time.

It also means you can have two completely different dining experiences within a few blocks of each other.

You’ll find trendy restaurants that are popular on TikTok and Instagram, and those can certainly be fun—especially if you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some very Instagram-worthy photos.

Amber and I tried one of the popular restaurants while we were there, and we had a fantastic experience. There was a long line outside, but the staff brought us drinks and snacks while we waited for our table. The service was wonderful, and once we were seated, the food was plentiful and delicious.

It was trendy, fun and absolutely worth experiencing.

However, we also LOVED the small family-owned restaurants. They were much less expensive and gave us a completely different look at Costa Rican food and hospitality.

These casual local restaurants are often called sodas. No, we weren’t eating every meal at a Coca-Cola machine. A soda is typically a small, family-owned establishment serving traditional Costa Rican food.

The popular restaurants are fun for the atmosphere, service and photos. The local sodas offer a simpler, more authentic and often much more affordable experience.

My recommendation? Try both.

Take the photos, order the fun drinks and enjoy the trendy restaurant. Then find a small soda, support a local family and eat something you might not have discovered on TikTok.

Our Very Honest Hostel Experience

Amber and I stayed at a hostel right in La Fortuna. It was my first hostel experience, and my official review is that I didn’t hate it—but I certainly didn’t love it either.

I’m glad I tried it because it gave me a better understanding of that style of travel. It also confirmed that I don’t need to make hostel stays a regular part of my future vacation plans!

What I did love was the location.

Being in town meant we could walk to restaurants, bars, shops, activities and the laundromat. We didn’t have to plan every outing or spend money on transportation whenever we wanted to grab dinner.

Staying in downtown La Fortuna can be a smart choice for travelers who value walkability and affordability. Just understand that it will feel completely different from staying at one of the beautiful resorts in the hills surrounding town.

The Resort Experience Around Arenal

On the opposite end of the accommodation spectrum, I have booked clients at The Springs Resort & Spa at Arenal, and they have loved it.

The price point is considerably higher, but it offers a much more elevated experience. For travelers who want beautiful surroundings, resort amenities and hot springs incorporated into their stay, the additional cost may be worth it.

There are several hot-springs resorts throughout the La Fortuna and Arenal area, each with a different style and price point. Some are lively and family-friendly, while others are quieter, more romantic or more luxurious.

Many of these properties are outside downtown La Fortuna, up in the hills and closer to Arenal Volcano. That makes them fantastic for scenery and a more immersive resort experience, but not necessarily convenient for walking into town.

This is why choosing a hotel in La Fortuna isn’t just about finding the prettiest room. You need to decide whether you want easy access to town or a resort that becomes a major part of the vacation itself.

Our Day at Baldi Hot Springs

Amber and I visited Baldi Hot Springs on a day pass rather than staying overnight. It was a pretty cool experience and allowed us to enjoy the thermal pools without changing hotels.

Would I call it the most luxurious hot-springs experience in the area? No. There are more elevated options available, depending on what you want to spend.

But that is exactly why travelers need to understand that “going to the hot springs” doesn’t describe one universal experience.

Different properties offer different numbers and styles of pools, settings and atmospheres. Some travelers want lots of choices and a livelier environment. Others picture a quiet pool surrounded by rainforest where they can relax without seeing many other people.

Baldi gave us a fun introduction to the hot springs, and I’m glad we experienced it. For another trip, I might choose one of the more elevated properties and turn the hot springs into a larger part of the stay.

The right answer depends on your budget, who you’re traveling with and whether you want the hot springs to be a fun afternoon or one of the main highlights of your vacation.

The Truth About La Fortuna Waterfall and Those 530 Steps

La Fortuna Waterfall is beautiful, but you are going to work for that view.

The official route includes approximately 530 steps down to the waterfall. And yes, the only way back out is to climb those same steps.

If you know me, then you already know those 530 steps were pure torture for me in the moment. Hahaha! I probably questioned several of my life choices and complained for a good portion of the climb back up.

But I am SO happy we did it, and in the end, it was worth every step!

The waterfall itself is impressive, and the forest surrounding the trail is beautiful. There are places to pause along the stairs, so you can take your time without feeling like you need to race anyone.

The experience is touristy and can get busy. Travelers with knee problems, mobility concerns or difficulty climbing stairs should know exactly what is involved before purchasing tickets.

But if I can do it, I honestly think many reasonably active travelers can too. Take your time, bring water and accept that your legs may have a few choice words for you the following day.

Is Rio Celeste a Better Waterfall Option?

Another waterfall to consider is Rio Celeste in Tenorio Volcano National Park. I didn’t personally visit this one, so I can’t give you a firsthand comparison.

The traveler Amber and I met in Costa Rica had visited both. He preferred the hike and viewing experience at Rio Celeste over La Fortuna Waterfall.

The official trail through Tenorio Volcano National Park is approximately 3.2 kilometers, or about two miles. It’s more of a traditional rainforest hike and doesn’t involve the same enormous staircase as La Fortuna Waterfall.

Rio Celeste is known for its striking blue water, so it may be a better fit for someone who prefers hiking over climbing hundreds of steps.

If you only have time for one waterfall, don’t choose based solely on which photo looks prettier. Think about the location, trail conditions and type of physical activity you would actually enjoy—or at least tolerate!

Who Will Love La Fortuna?

La Fortuna is a great choice for travelers who want to experience Costa Rica beyond the coast. It offers plenty of activities, beautiful scenery and accommodations ranging from basic hostels to luxury resorts.

It’s especially appealing if you enjoy mixing outdoor adventures with a little relaxation. You can hike to a waterfall in the morning, eat lunch at a local soda and soak in a hot spring later that day.

You should also arrive knowing that La Fortuna is popular. This isn’t an undiscovered little rainforest town where you’ll have every trail and restaurant to yourself. Some attractions will be busy, and some businesses are priced for tourists.

That doesn’t take away from the experience. It simply helps to choose thoughtfully instead of assuming every highly promoted restaurant, resort or attraction will be the best fit for you.

Is La Fortuna Worth Adding to Your Costa Rica Vacation?

For me, yes.

La Fortuna gave Amber and me a completely different experience from the coastal portion of our trip. We tried a new style of accommodation, enjoyed the hot springs, found restaurants we loved and conquered those 530 waterfall steps—even if I was less than enthusiastic about the conquering part while it was happening!

What I appreciate most about La Fortuna is the variety. You can make it affordable and casual, luxurious and relaxing, active and adventurous, or some combination of all three.

The key is choosing the right hotel location, hot-springs experience and activities for the way you actually like to travel.

At Good Trip Travel Co., I help travelers sort through those choices so they aren’t simply booking the first beautiful Costa Rica resort or viral restaurant they see online.

Ready to experience Costa Rica beyond the resort? Contact Hildy Webb at Good Trip Travel Co., and let’s create a vacation with the right mix of adventure, relaxation and experiences you’ll actually enjoy.